Afyren and Esse Skincare partner to advance natural cosmetics with bio-based propionic acid
The launch taps into the growing global demand for propionic acid across various fields.
FRANCE – Afyren, a French greentech company, and Esse Skincare, based in South Africa, have teamed up to launch the world’s first bio-based propionic acid for the personal care industry, marking a breakthrough in sustainable cosmetics.
This new ingredient is derived through fermentation technology, offering a low-carbon, COSMOS-certified alternative to traditionally petrochemical-based propionic acid.
Propionic acid is a naturally occurring short-chain fatty acid that plays a crucial role in maintaining a healthy skin microbiome.
Recent research highlights its ability to modulate inflammation, strengthen the skin barrier, and maintain microbial balance, key factors for resilient, hydrated skin. Until now, propionic acid for industrial use in cosmetics was only available from petrochemical sources.
The bio-based propionic acid is produced at Afyren’s flagship industrial biorefinery, NEOXY, in Saint-Avold, France.
Afyren’s proprietary fermentation process uses local, non-food agricultural co-products, resulting in a fully circular, low-carbon production method.
The ingredient is COSMOS-certified, reflecting its natural and sustainable credentials.
Afyren specializes in biobased, low-carbon ingredients, while Esse Skincare is recognized for its expertise in microbiome-focused skincare science.
Their collaboration represents a significant step toward replacing fossil-based ingredients with precise, lab-based bioactives in cosmetics.
Nicolas Sordet, CEO of Afyren, stated that this partnership demonstrates how biotechnology can drive both performance and sustainability in cosmetics, delivering tangible benefits for consumers and the environment.
The companies anticipate that the first products featuring this bio-based propionic acid will soon reach the market.
This development is part of a larger trend in the beauty industry, shifting away from direct plant harvesting and petrochemicals toward fermentation-derived, sustainable ingredients.
Afyren’s facility is the first globally to produce a range of organic acids at commercial scale using a circular model, paving the way for more eco-friendly personal care solutions.
According to a report by Mordor Intelligence, the global propionic acid market is projected to grow from USD 1.69 billion in 2025 to USD 2.23 billion by 2030, registering a CAGR of approximately 5.7%.
This growth is driven by rising demand in food preservation, animal feed, agriculture, pharmaceuticals, and personal care, with Europe currently leading consumption and Asia-Pacific emerging as the fastest-growing region.
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