Debut unveils bio-based carmine pigment for sustainable beauty

USA – Debut, a company that combines biotechnology and brand creation to develop sustainable beauty products, has launched a bio-manufactured carmine pigment, offering antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. 

This innovative pigment, traditionally derived from cochineal beetles, mirrors its natural counterpart’s rich shade and vibrancy while providing a sustainable alternative.

The pigment is utilised in cosmetic formulations, such as lipstick, to deliver a bold and vibrant red colour.

According to Debut,  their pigment is free from a particular protein in beetle-derived carmine that can cause skin irritation, making it a safer choice for beauty and food applications.

Joshua Britton, PhD, founder and CEO of Debut, stated, “There have been several colorants that have been used as replacements to cochineal-derived carmine, but nothing beats the shade, power, stability, and vibrancy of carmine in lipstick.”

“Debut’s bio-carmine is the same ingredient found in nature.”

Debut claims its biosynthetic pigment was discovered using a new family of enzymes, solving a 15-year research challenge.

The company has overcome industrial limitations by integrating patented microbial production with cell-free biomanufacturing, making the pigment scalable for the beauty industry.

The introduction of carmine pigment is a response to the FDA’s ban on Red No. 3, providing a natural and safe alternative for food and drug manufacturers.

The Delaney Clause of the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act prohibits the FDA from approving any additive that induces cancer in humans or animals.

This change aligns with the growing demand for natural ingredients and the ongoing efforts to ensure consumer safety.

The company recently introduced an AI platform,  BeautyORB, to advance the development of biotech beauty ingredients.

The platform has already designed ingredients targeting inflammaging and epidermal barrier repair and is set to generate two new biotech ingredients each year.

The BeautyORB platform analyses over 10,000 molecules to assess the impact of various molecular structures on skin cells. 

By training the system to recognise molecular patterns, Debut’s data engineers enable the platform to identify the most effective molecules for activating specific gene responses.

This genomics-driven approach offers adaptability, allowing the company to tailor ingredient formulations to meet specific needs.

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