Morocco issues warning over glyoxylic acid in hair products amid rising cases of acute kidney damage

MOROCCO – The Moroccan Agency for Medicines and Health Products (AMMPS), known as Agence Marocaine du Médicament et des Produits de Santé, issued a public health alert warning about hair-straightening products containing glyoxylic acid due to risks of acute kidney damage. 

This cautionary statement urges consumers, hair professionals, and healthcare providers to avoid these products, as scientific data links the chemical’s skin absorption during treatments to severe renal issues.

Glyoxylic acid, used for its hair-smoothing properties in popular straightening treatments like Brazilian blowouts, can be absorbed through the scalp and converted into oxalate crystals that accumulate in the kidneys. 

This process may lead to acute kidney injury or failure, with symptoms including nausea, severe fatigue, muscle weakness, vomiting, abdominal pain, and lower back pain appearing shortly after application. 

AMMPS advises hair salons and professionals to stop using glyoxylic acid-based products immediately and to carefully review ingredient lists. 

Users experiencing symptoms post-treatment should seek urgent medical care and report incidents, while doctors are encouraged to inquire about recent hair procedures in cases of unexplained kidney problems. 

The agency emphasizes maintaining a 1.5 cm distance from the scalp during application, avoiding direct scalp contact, and following manufacturer instructions to minimize risks, though outright avoidance is preferred.

This Moroccan alert follows similar warnings from France’s ANSES in 2024-2025, which reported kidney failures after “Brazilian straightening” sessions, and global research highlighting nephrotoxicity from transcutaneous absorption. 

No Moroccan-specific cases are detailed in the alert, but it draws on international evidence to preempt harm in a market where these products are widely used in salons and homes. 

Early interventions like thiamine and pyridoxine may mitigate damage, underscoring the need for regulatory scrutiny on cosmetic safety.

In other news, Morocco’s cosmetics market is on track for remarkable expansion, nearly doubling in value from USD 1.82 billion in 2024 to USD 3.59 billion by 2032, fueled by a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 7.92%, according to a report by Mazimize Market Research.

Rising disposable incomes among Moroccan consumers, coupled with a strong fashion-forward culture, are propelling demand for high-quality beauty products, especially organic and sustainable options. 

Health and wellness trends are also key, boosting interest in skincare items like anti-aging creams, moisturizers, and sunscreens that support skin health amid the region’s climate. 

Women’s growing participation in the workforce further accelerates this shift, favoring multi-functional, time-saving cosmetics.

Skincare products dominate, particularly those featuring natural ingredients such as argan oil, rose water, and other local botanicals, which resonate with preferences for cruelty-free and eco-friendly formulations. 

Haircare and makeup follow closely, with tailored foundations addressing diverse regional skin tones gaining traction. 

Urban hubs like Casablanca, Rabat, and Marrakech lead consumption, driven by middle-income and younger buyers.

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