Dermatologists introduce global coalition against skin bleaching

GLOBAL – The International League of Dermatological Societies (ILDS) has established a team of global experts to address the growing risks of skin bleaching worldwide. 

The initiative is designed to clearly separate the medical treatment of pigmentation disorders from the harmful use of skin-lightening products, while promoting dermatology-led, evidence-based care. 

The group describes skin bleaching as a major public health concern affecting millions of people. 

The organization notes that skin-lightening use is especially common in some markets, including Nigeria, Senegal and North India, where studies found high proportions of women reporting use of such products.

Although skin bleaching has long been associated with aspirational beauty standards, the working group warns that the practice is now reaching teenagers more often, and in some regions children and even infants are being exposed to it. 

Men are also becoming more frequent users of these products.

ILDS working group member Professor Seemal Desai, who is also a former president of the American Academy of Dermatology, said reports from several countries, particularly in parts of West Africa, indicate that skin-lightening products are increasingly being used on infants and young children. 

He said this is especially alarming because once the products are used on children, the issue goes beyond cosmetics and becomes a serious public health matter.

The working group says weak regulation, combined with continued demand for lighter skin, has allowed these products to remain widely available despite clear health risks. 

It adds that the practice is driven by social pressure that places higher value on fairer skin, and is common in Africa, Asia, the Caribbean and the Middle East. 

In addition, the group stresses that pigmentation disorders can significantly affect quality of life and should be treated with safe, science-based dermatological care.

Skin-lightening products work by temporarily or permanently reducing skin tone through chemicals that interfere with melanin production. 

Desai says many of these products contain mercury, potent corticosteroids, hydroquinone, or a combination of these ingredients.

Exposure to these substances has been linked to kidney damage, neurological problems, nervous system disorders and psychosis. 

The risks can be especially serious for women, including concerns around reproductive health and fetal development during pregnancy. 

Because of these dangers, such ingredients are heavily regulated in many markets, but they still reach consumers through gaps in enforcement and oversight.

Desai says products used to bleach infant skin can include creams, soaps and so-called baby toners. 

He explained that children are more vulnerable because their skin barrier is still developing and their body size means they absorb topical substances more easily, increasing the risk of toxicity, kidney injury, neurologic harm and endocrine complications.

For regulators, warning signs include phrases such as “fairer skin,” “shade lighter in days” and “full-body brightening.”

Desai said inconsistent regulation, poor ingredient labelling, cross-border online sales and informal distribution channels are helping harmful products remain in circulation, making international cooperation essential.

The working group aims to tackle the issue across public health, culture, identity, psychology and health equity. 

It also plans to expand education, strengthen international partnerships, engage policymakers and regulators, and support public awareness campaigns tailored to local communities.

The group also plans to work with patient advocates and ILDS member societies to improve access to evidence-based dermatology care and better understand the global scale of the problem. 

It will continue to urge regulators to distinguish between medically supervised use of lightening agents for pigmentary disorders and the misuse of those products for cosmetic skin lightening.

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