Esse Skincare unveils world’s first 100% natural propionic acid
The collaboration between Esse and Afyren reflects a broader industry shift towards skincare products that combine biotechnology, sustainability and skin science.
FRANCE – Microbiome-focused skincare brand Esse Skincare has introduced what it describes as the world’s first cosmetic product formulated with 100% naturally derived propionic acid.
The launch follows Esse’s partnership with French biotechnology company Afyren.
The propionic acid used in Esse’s Barrier Rescue moisturiser is produced through natural fermentation at Afyren Neoxy, the company’s commercial-scale biorefinery in Carling Saint-Avold, France.
The ingredient is entirely bio-based and certified by COSMOS, the international standard for natural and organic cosmetics.
Propionic acid has traditionally been manufactured at industrial scale from petrochemical feedstocks.
Afyren’s fermentation-based process offers a bio-based alternative intended to reduce reliance on fossil-derived raw materials and support more sustainable cosmetic manufacturing.
Joachim Merziger, chief commercial officer at Afyren, stated, “This partnership shows how biotechnology can unlock new opportunities for both performance and sustainability in cosmetics, bringing tangible benefits for people and the planet. We are very proud to see the first products now reaching consumers.”
Propionic acid is a short-chain fatty acid that occurs naturally in the human body and helps support a balanced skin microbiome.
Afyren said emerging research indicates that the compound may help regulate inflammation, reinforce the skin barrier and maintain microbial balance.
These properties may help improve hydration while supporting the skin’s resilience.
Afyren began working with South African skincare company Esse in December 2025.
Through the partnership, Afyren is providing Esse with fully natural cosmetic ingredients intended to improve skincare performance while meeting the brand’s focus on microbiome health and sustainability.
Esse’s Barrier Rescue moisturiser combines 100% natural propionic acid produced using Afyren’s fermentation technology with ceramides.
The nourishing formula is designed for extremely dry and reactive skin, helping to replenish moisture, strengthen the skin barrier and support the skin’s natural microbial ecosystem.
Afyren supplies bio-based, low-carbon ingredients to manufacturers across the cosmetics industry.
The company describes its Neoxy facility as the first commercial-scale biorefinery capable of producing multiple organic acids. Its fermentation platform is based on a fully circular operating model.
Currently, many personal care companies are increasingly exploring alternatives to ingredients traditionally derived from petrochemicals, partly in response to growing regulatory pressure for cleaner and more transparent formulations.
Sign up to receive our email newsletters with the latest news updates and insights from Africa and the World HERE.
